1. Finishing as Craft
Finishing is the set of techniques that give watch components their surface, edge and decorative character. Some finishing is functional, for example smoothing surfaces to reduce friction or removing burrs that could cause wear. Much of it is decorative, and it is the part most visible to the owner.
2. Anglage and Bevelled Edges
Anglage is the hand bevelling of the edges of bridges and plates. The bevel is cut at an angle and polished so that it catches light in a clean line. Because each edge is worked by hand, the consistency of the line depends on the skill of the finisher. Machines can produce similar shapes, but many collectors value the subtle variation of hand work.
Common finishing techniques (qualitative)
| Technique | Visual effect | Main difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Anglage | Clean bright bevelled edges | Keeping angles consistent across every edge |
| Geneva stripes | Parallel bands of light and shade | Even pressure and clean intersections |
| Hand polishing | Mirror-smooth flat surfaces | Avoiding rounded edges and uneven planes |
| Perlage | Circular decorative texture | Uniform pattern without marks |
3. Geneva Stripes and Polishing
Geneva stripes, sometimes called Côtes de Genève, are parallel bands applied to the surface of bridges. They are commonly applied by hand with a fine tool, and the stripes must meet cleanly at the edges. Polishing flat surfaces to a mirror finish requires keeping the plane flat, because a rounded surface changes how light reflects.
4. Time and Cost
Hand finishing is slow. A single component may need many stages, each requiring a steady hand and good light. This is one reason fine finishing is associated with higher-grade movements. The time spent is a matter of craft, not a guarantee of timing performance, which depends on the movement design and regulation.
5. Recognising Quality
When examining finishing, look at the consistency of edges, the sharpness of transitions, the flatness of polished surfaces and the uniformity of stripes. Examine the piece in good light from several angles, and compare it with other examples of the same movement.
6. Black Polish
Black polish, known in French as bloc-polissage, is a finish that produces a deep, reflective dark surface on steel. It is achieved by polishing with a soft tool and fine compounds until the surface is flat and free of scratches. Because it shows every irregularity, it demands a steady hand and a flat reference surface, and it is one of the least forgiving finishes in the workshop.